Camino del Norte Backwards

Unemployed in May

Due to lack of employment, I decided to take a holiday, and go on a cycle tour of the North of Spain.

Despite looking at weather statistics:

 I thought that being of Scottish origin this should not deter me from exploring this area. The theory was, starting in Santander, to follow the Camino del Norte the wrong way to Bilbao, then travel south to Burgos to join the The Camino Francés 

as far as Leon, then to do the whole of the Camino del Salvador to Oviedo, and return to Santander, once again following the Camino del Norte in the wrong direction.

I had previously been to Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Ingles (all the way to Finisterre), so figured that this would be a good way to use my limited time.

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13th May 

Set off from Maliaño, a suburb of Santander along the coast.

Views of Santander from across the Bay (note blue sky)

 Beautiful, green countryside, with plenty of hills leading to cliffs and Atlantic beaches

I wanted to be able to use the excellent Albergues de Pelegrinos, so had to get a Credencial; the 'passport' that enables you to stay in the very cheap hostels, and to meet other people following the routes of the Pilgrims (albeit in the correct direction!)

My first Albegue was the excellent Albergue in Güemes 

run by the legendary Ernesto Bustio and various volunteers. 

The hospitality and generosity of all the people involved there was truly inspirational.

Back on the road, the weather becoming more and more ominous, however many things to see

marshland along the coastline, important stop off for migratory birds en route to Africa

And a nice ocean view prison near Santoña

In the seaside town of Laredo, I met a retired British couple of cycle tourists en route to Barcelona whilst climbing this steep hill overlooking the town

They told me of previous cycle tours they had done, including one in the tea plantations of India!

I opted to leave the road, to try and follow one of the Camino del Norte's medieval roads; very beautiful but unfortunately very stony and plenty of steep inclines, going above & below the Autovia A8... not ideal on a fully laden bike, but worth it for the lack of traffic and beautiful terrain

offroad Camino del Norte (roughly 12% incline)

Camping Sauvage

After all the hills & rough tracks, got too tired to reach next Albergue/Campsite, as well as the start of the rain which had been following me all day, I found a suitable clifftop location (next to a sewage plant!) to pitch the tent and test its waterproof efficacy